Sweet As Honey Cardigan Pattern

It’s been a while since I’ve written a post.  Honestly, it’s been because life has just been hard the last two months.  My husband has been away for a work a lot.  I’ve been juggling a full-time career and two toddlers.  The baby has been going through an extremely difficult phase.  She’s been fussy, clingy, and not sleeping.  As in getting up four times a night not sleeping.  For almost two months.  It’s been some combination of teething, a possible dairy issue, and most recently a cold.  On top of all that, I’ve had pneumonia.  There has been no time for knitting.  But today, I had a day off and finally typed up the sweater pattern I designed for her birthday.  I love this pattern, so much!

As my daughter’s first birthday was approaching, I decided to make her a bee-themed cardigan to go with her “First Bee-Day” party.  The cardigan was blue to match her beautiful blue eyes, and featured capped sleeves for the warm weather.  All of the edges feature I-cords to give a soft, rolled-edge look.  The sweater is knit as one piece because seaming is my least favorite part of sweater-making.  I hope you enjoy the pattern!

Buy the pattern for $5 on Etsy here or on Ravelry here.

Materials:

Go to this link to buy a kit with everything you need to make this hat on Amazon.

  • Medium sport weight yarn in two colors (I used Lion Brand Babysoft Yarn in Bluebell [MC] and Pastel Yellow [CC])
  • US 8 24” circular needles
  • US 8 double pointed needles
  • Tapestry needle
  • Buttons
  • Needle and thread to sew on buttons


Stitches Used:

Please comment below with any questions!

Deep V Hoodie

I asked for Vogue Knitting for Christmas and loved a pattern that showed up in the very first issue I received.  I like to make complicated things, but I tend to wear simple garments in mostly solid colors.  I like it when they are a little different from what you see everyday.  While not something I would love making, this hoodie was definitely something I would love wearing.  It knit up pretty quickly on No 8 needles.  I love the end product.  This is probably going to be my new favorite garment this fall.

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Difficulty:  Easy

Time Required:  Many Movies

Overall Experience:  Good

Katniss Cowl

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You may purchase the cowl from my Etsy shop here.

As the Catching Fire promotional material came out a few months ago, a cowl that Katniss was wearing became quite popular in the knitting community. When my mom texted me that my sister was in love with a sweater thing from the new Hunger Games movie, I knew exactly what she was talking about. I found some patterns online, but they were all missing something from the original. I decided to make up my own.

The overall effect of the cowl turned out stunningly well. The cowl, in a size small, was a little smaller and tighter than the original, but very close. I’ve read that the original garment was woven rather than just knitted. The actual knitting is very simple, but the garment construction is difficult.

Sizes

I made the original garment in a size small, fitting it to myself as I went.  I’ve received some requests for other sizes, so I have provided some alternate (untested) sizes.  The garment is stretchy and forgiving.  Let me how it turns out if you make one of the other sizes!  They are based off of the following chest measurements:

  • Small:  33-34 inches
  • Medium:  35-36 inches
  • Large:  37-39 inches
  • Extra-Large:  40-42 inches

The length/stitch count for the small is shown first outside of parenthesis.  The other sizes follow inside of parenthesis, i.e. small (medium, large, extra large).  The pattern gets a little long and confusing with the different sizes, so I would suggest printing the pattern and highlighting the size you are making.

Materials

  • About 6.5 (6.75, 7.00, 7.25) ft of 3/4 in synthetic rope
  • About 3.5 (3.75, 4.00, 4.00)  ft of 3/8 in synthetic rope
  • 5 skeins of Vanna’s Choice in Grey Marble
  • 3 size US 15 knitting needles
  • Size G crochet hook
  • 5 size US 6 knitting needles (optional: only needed if you choose to knit rather than crochet the caps that go over the ends of the ropes)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Grey duck tape
  • Lighter

Stitches Used

Neck

The neck was definitely the most tedious part of the cowl to make.  The method I used looks very much like the real cowl, but it turned out quite stiff. Modified crocheted stitches are used to cover the rope in yarn.  The rest of the garment is knitted.

  • Cut the 3/4 in rope at 34 (35, 37, 38) inches.  The rope will likely have three strands.  On each end, cut 1 in from one strand, 1/2 in from the second strand, and leave the third strand alone.  The end of your rope should look like this:

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  • Find a non-flammable surface outside.  Form the piece of rope into a circle and align the ends so that the short piece on one is touching the short piece on the other end.  The two mid-sized pieces should be touching.  Use the lighter to melt the rope and fuse the piece into a circle.  It’s OK if it’s a little lumpy.

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  • Wrap the circle in duck tape.  This hides whatever neon color your rope is and gives the circle some extra stability.

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  • Tie a knot around your crochet hook.  Wrap the yarn around the rope circle and ch.  Continue wrapping and chaining until the entire circle is covered in yarn.  The chain should be on the bottom of your circle.  You may need to periodically push the yarn closer together to make sure no duck tape is showing.  Break off and work in ends.

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  • Cut 39 (40, 42, 43) in sections of both the 3/4 in and 3/8 in rope.  Cover both sections in duck tape to hide the neon coloring.

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  • The next two ropes will not be circular, so an approximately 2 in cap needs to be made for each end of the two ropes.  I already had my crochet hook in my hand, so I crocheted them.  I included directions for alternative knitted caps, but they are untested. If some tries it, let me know how it works!

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Crocheted Large Cap (Make 2)

R1:  Ch 3, sl st into first ch to create ring

R2:  Sc 6 in ring, sl st in first sc (6 sc)

R3:  Ch 1, sc 2 in each sc, sl st in first sc (12 sc)

R4-R8:  Ch 1, sc in each sc, sl st in first sc (12 sc)

Break off and work in ends.

Alternative Knitted Large Caps (Make 2)

Cast on 12 stitches using the double pointed needles. Distribute stitches on four needles evenly.

R1-R6: Knitting in round, k12

R7: K2tog six times

Cut yarn and pull end through all six live stitches. Pull tight and work in ends.

Crocheted Small Cap (Make 2)

R1:  Ch 3, sl st into first ch to create ring

R2:  Ch 1, sc 6 in ring, sl st in first sc (6 sc)

R3-R8:  Ch 1, sc in each sc, sl st in first sc  (6 sc)

Break off and work in ends.

Alternative Knitted Small Caps (Make 2)

Cast on 6 stitches using the double pointed needles. Distribute stitches on three needles evenly.

R1-R7: Knitting in round, k6

Cut yarn and pull end through all six live stitches. Pull tight and work in ends.

Neck (Continued)

  • Place larger caps on the ends of the 3/4 in rope.  They should fit snugly.  Sl st into cap about 1 in from the end of the rope on “bottom.”  Wrap the yarn around the rope and cap and sl st into cap until you reach the end of the cap.
  • Wrap the yarn around the rope and ch until 4 in of the rope is covered.
  • Ch 5 bringing the chain along the inside of the rope, sl st into a ch on the circular piece of rope.

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  • Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the next ch on the circular piece of rope.  Continue until 3 in of the rope is left uncovered.  You may have to wrap the yarn around the rope twice or sl st into the same ch twice to make sure that all of the rope is covered at any time during this process.
  • Ch 5 bring the chain along the inside of the rope.  Wrap the yarn around the rope and ch until you reach the cap.
  • Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the bottom of the cap.  Continue until you are about 1 in from the end of the cap.  Break off and work in ends.

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  • Place smaller caps on the ends of the 3/8 in rope.  The should fit snugly.  Hold the smaller rope directly underneath the 3/4 in non-circular rope.  Starting 1 in from the end of the cap, wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the larger cap.  Continue until you reach the end of the caps.
  • Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the ch on the non-circular rope until 4 in of rope is covered.
  • Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the yarn wrapping around larger non-circular rope until 3 in of rope is left uncovered.
  • Wrap the yarn around the rope and sl st into the ch on the non-circular rope until you are 1 in from the end of the cap.  Break off and work in ends.

Torso and Shoulders

The hard part is done.  Yay!  The torso and shoulder sections are very simply knitted.  If you look at the texture of the real garment, it has an effect of being knitted, but each column of stitches is a different size.  As mentioned before, the garment was actually woven.    Each of the neck sections is likely to come together slightly differently so adjustments may need to be made.

Holding two strands of yarn together as one, cast 20 stitches on your Size US 15 knitting needles.  Knit Pattern 1 until your piece measures 3 in.

Pattern 1

R1:  K20

R2:  (P1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) four times

Continue using Pattern 2 until the piece measure about 19 (20, 21.5, 23) inches ending on R2.  All measurements starting here should be measured on the edge of the fabric AWAY from the neck section.  The fabric will be slightly gathered at the neck section.  For the first 12 (12.5, 13.5, 14.5) inches, pick up a stitch every 1/2 in.  Pick up a stitch every 1/4 in afterwards.  The stitches should be picked up starting at the bottom side of the 4 in free end of the 3/8 in covered rope.

Pattern 2

R1:  K20, pick up stitch on bottom of 3/8 in covered rope.

R2:  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, sl 1

Ending on R2, leave the live stitches on one of your three needles.  Right side facing, pick up 20 (22, 25, 27) stitches holding two strands together as one on the bottom approximately  6 (6.5, 7.5, 8) six inches on the right side of the section you just knitted.  Following Pattern 3, knit 12 inches ending on R1.

Pattern 3

R1 (small):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times

R1 (medium):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times, sl 1, p1

R1 (large):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) five times

R1 ( extra large):  (Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) five times, sl 1, p1

R2:  Sl 1, k19 (k21, k24, k26)

The next step is to work the stitches that are on both needles together and decrease back down from 40 (42, 45, 47) stitches to 20.  Continue picking up stitches about every 1/4 in.

Decrease Pattern

R1:  Continuing with needle holding the last row from Pattern 3, Sl 1, k19 (k21, k24, k26), continuing with the needle holding last row from Pattern 2, K20, pick up stitch on bottom of 3/8 in covered rope

R2 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times, p1, sl 2, p1

R2 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) four times, p1

R2 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) four times, p1, sl 2, p1

R2 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) five times, p1

R3:  Sl 1, k17 (19, 22, 24), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R4 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times

R4 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R4 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times

R4 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) four times, sl 1, p1

R5:  Sl 1, k15 (17, 20, 22) k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R6 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times

R6 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R6 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R6 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) three times, sl 1, p1

R7:  Sl 1, k13 (15, 18, 20), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R8 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) two times, sl 2, p1

R8 (medium): P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times

R8 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1

R8 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) four times

R9:  Sl 1, k11 (13, 16, 18), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R10 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) two times, p1

R10 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) two times, p1, sl 1, p1

R10 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) three times, p1

R10 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2) three times, p1, sl 1, p1

R11:  Sl 1, k9 (11, 14, 16), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R12 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R12 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) two times, p1

R12 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) two times, p1, sl 2, p1

R12 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times, p1

R13:  Sl 1, k7 (9, 12, 14), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R14 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R14 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R14 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times

R14 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times, sl 1, p1

R15:  Sl 1, k5 (7, 10, 12), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R16 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R16 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R16 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times

R16 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1) two times, sl 1, p1

R17:  Sl 1, k3 (5, 8, 10), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R18 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 2, p1

R18 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R18 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R18 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) two times

R19:  Sl 1, k1 (3, 6, 8), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R20 (small):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1

R20 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 1, p1

R20 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1

R20 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R21:  sl 0 (1, 1, 1), k0 (1, 4, 6), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R22 (small):  Not applicable (NA)

R22 (medium):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1

R22 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 2, p1

R22 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1

R23: (small NA)  sl (0, 1, 1), k (0, 2, 4), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R24 (small):  NA

R24 (medium):  NA

R24 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1

R24 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1

R25: (small, medium NA)  sl (NA, 1, 1), k (NA, 0, 2), k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R26 (small):  NA

R26 (medium):  NA

R26 (large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog

R26 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog, sl 1, p1

R27 (small):  NA

R27 (medium):  NA

R27 (large):  K20, pick up stitch

R27 (extra large):  sl 1, k2tog, k19, pick up stitch

R28 (small):  NA

R28 (medium):  NA

R28 (large):  NA

R28 (extra large):  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, p2tog

R29 (small):  NA

R29 (medium):  NA

R29 (large):  NA

R29 (extra large):  K20, pick up stitch

Continue using Pattern 4 for 6 (6.5, 7.25, 8) more inches ending on R1.

Pattern 4

R1:  P2tog, (sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1) three times, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R2:  K20, pick up stitch

Some additional shaping is required for the left shoulder.  Knit the Shoulder Repeat Pattern three times.

Shoulder Increase Pattern

R1:  K17

R2:  Sl 2, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times

R3:  K15

R4:  Sl 3, p1, sl 1, (p1, sl2, p1,  sl 1) two times

R5:  K12

R6:  Sl 2, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) two times

R7:  K10

R8:  Sl 3, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R9:  K7

R10:  Sl 2, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R11:  K5

R12:  Sl 3, p1, sl1

R13:  K2

R14:  Sl 2

R15:  K20, pick up a stitch

R16:  P2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times

R17:  K20, pick up a stitch

R18:  P2tog, sl 2, p1, sl 1, (p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1) three times

After repeating the Shoulder Increase Pattern three times, continue using Pattern 4 until you reach the end of the rope ending on a R2.  You may have to bind off differently to make everything fit together right.  I bound off 12 of the stitches. I then followed Pattern 5 for three more inches and bound off the remaining stitches.

Pattern 5

R1:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1

R2:  K8

Whip stitch the bound off stitches to the left side of where you started knitting along four inch free end of the rope sections as shown below.

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Front Triangular Section

The last step is to add a triangular section near where you began decreasing from 40 (42, 45, 47) to 20 stitches.  Holding two strands of yarn together as one, pick up 12 stitches pearl-wise along the bottom of the top section starting at the corner where the two sections come together.  See the picture below.  Follow the triangle pattern below.

Triangle Pattern

R1:  K12

R2:  P1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R3:  K10, k2tog

R4:  Sl2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R5:  K9 k2tog

R6:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R7:  K8, k2tog

R8:  P1, sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R9:  K7, k2tog

R10:  Sl 1, p1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R11:  K6, k2tog

R12:  P1, sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R13:  K5, k2tog

R14:  Sl 2, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R15:  K4, k2tog

R16:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R17:  K3, k2tog

R18:  P1, sl 1, p1, sl 1

R19:  K2, k2tog

R20:  Sl 1, p1, sl 1

R21:  K1, k2tog

R22: p1, sl 1

R23:  K2 tog

Bind off.  Whip stitch the bottom of the triangular section to the portion below it as shown in the picture.

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Finished Nachtfalter and Misadventures

Behind, behind, behind…

Due to work vamping up right before my dissertation defense, I got way behind on my summer knit-a-long project. The website said I had until Monday, July 22 to post my finished picture. I took that to mean that I could post a picture on July 22, but I wasn’t sure. I knitted all day on Sunday, July 21, but at 11 pm I was worn out. I had all but three rows of knitting finished, but I still needed to bind off, sew up the sides, and tuck in all of my ends. On July 22 I was disappointed to find out that I had to submit my picture before July 22 to be eligible for prizes. I was still planning to finish my sweater on July 22; however…

The cat peed on my wedding dress

I picked up my dress about two weeks ago. My fiance has two extra closets with basically no clothing in them. I chose the taller closet, hung my plastic enclosed dress in it, and shut the stiff-hinged accordion-style doors. My fiance has a cat. Somehow she managed to get the door open and pee on the dress. I don’t have a clue how she got the door open. It’s difficult for me to open. Most of the pee was caught by the plastic bag, but some of it seeped through. There were only a couple of spots of yellow, but the dress reeked of cat pee. I spent all of Monday evening trying to get the smell and yellow out. I did both successfully. Yay! Needless to say, the cat is in trouble.

Kittyface and Kittyface

Finishing the sweater

I didn’t finish the sweater until Tuesday night. I wore it to work today (Wednesday). It turned out really cute! My colleagues couldn’t believe that I actually made it.

Nachtfalter Front

Nachtfalter Back

Pattern Tips

The pattern can be purchased at Holla Knits (the store/blog that hosted the knit-a-long).

Usually I post tips and hints for things that I make, but I basically made this pattern as written. I lot of other people were making this sweater at the same time, so they posted tips about what they were doing. You may find these resources helpful.

  • Stefanie (the pattern author) gave some helpful tips for the butterfly lace on her blog
  • I used a crocheted seam on the sides of the sweater, already described here
  • There is a Ravelry discussion that talks all about the project here
  • A lot of people ran out of yarn because the quantities in the pattern were a little off. I think that the pattern has been remedied, but I’m not sure.

Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

The lace was difficult if you have never knitted lace before.

Time Required: ~50 movies

Overall Experience: Good

This was really fun to knit, and I love how it turned out!

Nachtfalter Summer Knit-a-Long Week 6 Progress

Well… I should have had the sweater finished by today, but we were all graciously given another week.  I’ve knit 5/16 of the back lace repeats in the last two days.  Hopefully I can finish by next Sunday!  I love how it is turning out.

photo-44

Nachtfalter Front

Nachtfalter Summer Knit-a-Long–Finished Front

I have been furiously finishing my dissertation this week, which resulted in no knitting from Sunday through Thursday.  I finally finished the front of my summer sweater this morning, almost two weeks late.  I’m really pleased with the way that it looks.  I wanted to post a quick picture of it pinned to my form.  Now I need to address those wedding invitations.  I picked up my wedding dress this morning.  Exciting!  Only 85 days until I walk down the aisle!

Nachtfalter Front

Nachtfalter Summer Knit-a-Long Week 5 Progress

So…  I’m pretty much behind on everything.  I’m behind on my dissertation writing goal.  The wedding invitations should have gone out on July 5 and won’t be going out until after I get my dissertation done.  I’m way behind on my summer knit-a-long project.  At this point I should have 16 lace repeats finished for the front of the sweater and 8 on the back.  I have 15 total.  The good news is that Katie and Allison, who are in charge of the knit-a-long, have decided to give us an extra week to finish.  That should be perfect.  I’m almost exactly one week behind at this point.  See my progress below.

Week 5

nachtfalterstargreen

Nachtfalter Summer Knit-a-Long Week 4 Progress

I am way behind on this project.  I’m currently finishing up my PhD and things have been crazy the last two weeks.  I haven’t had much time to knit.  I have 9 of the 16 lace repeats I was supposed to have done finished.  Hopefully I have time to start catching up this week!

KAL Week 4

This is what the finished product should look like.

nachtfalterstargreen